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Alec Lower

Social Media Coordinator - Second Nature

How Do I Know What Size Air Filter I Need?

Where do I find my size? Air filter sizes can look a bit intimidating, especially when a great deal of homes have multiple filters of different sizes. Second Nature is here to make filter buying EASY. Once you enter your filter sizes with us just once, not only will you not have to remember when it's time to change them, but you will no longer need to remember those tricky sizes. In order to find the size of pleated filter(s) used in your home, you need to look no further than your existing filters. On the outer frame, you will see at least one set of numbers. If you see two sets of numbers, the filter size needed to order replacements is the nominal size, not the actual size. You can ignore the actual size printed on your filter for this task, as the nominal size is the number set needed to order new filters. Your filter size (again, referencing the nominal size for your filter here) will look something like this: 20" x 20" x 1" or 20" x 25" x 1" or 14" x 20" x 2" The size of your pleated air filter is always presented in a string of three numbers, with the first number representing the length, the second number representing the width, and the last number representing the thickness. ‍ If you’re still not sure what size filter(s) your home needs, feel free to reach out to us.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Where Are My Air Filters Located

Where in my house are the filters? While it’s crucial to change out your air filters regularly, you won’t get far if you do not know where they are supposed to go! Whether you recently moved into a new home or your better half (you know, the responsible one) isn't around, here are some tips and clues you can use to make your search easier. ‍ Changing the filters in the HVAC unit In this case, your air filter is most likely located right next to your furnace or air conditioning system air handler. The air handler is the large metal box containing the fan and fan motor. Typically, the unit would be found in a basement, an attic, or sometimes in the back of a closet. Once it is located, look for a slot where an air filter should fit. What you are seeking is a 1" wide hinged or removable cover. If you have a thicker filter that is 4" or more, the slot should match accordingly. There should already be a filter placed in there, which will confirm that you found the right spot! It will depend on your unit, but it can be orientated vertically or horizontally. Just make sure that your airflow arrow points towards the unit! If you looked everywhere and you still cannot find any possible place to put in a filter, there is no need to panic! It just means that you need to use a return vent. That, or you might have to update your eye prescription. Changing the filters in a return vent The air handler pulls air in from the house through the return duct system, and then blows the air through the heating or cooling system and back into the house through the duct system. The air filter is typically located at the point where the return duct enters the air handler. ‍ Larger houses often have more than one HVAC system. Each system will typically have at least one air filter. Therefore, your home may have filters located at the air handler AND in the returns. You should check each possible location to make sure you have found all of your filters. ‍ Since HVAC units are usually hidden away in smaller and less convenient spaces, some homes are set up for air filters in return vents. Return vents are often in the wall but can be in your ceiling or even the floor. The vent will be rectangular or square and should be larger than a standard air duct vent. If you already know the filter sizes that your home needs, that is a good hint for the shape of the return vent that you need to find. ‍ Once found, the cover of the return vent can be removed by pulling a tab or unscrewing a bolt. For the latter, an ordinary coin should do the trick to loosen it, similar to a standard screwdriver. Place the cover to the side and remove the old filter. Place the new filter in the same way as the old one. Pleated filters have one side that has thin metal wiring and another side without. When installed in the return vent, the side with metal should be facing away from you and should not be seen. The purpose of the wiring is to keep the filter's shape. Since the vent is pulling air inwards, it is more efficient for particles to collide with the plain side of the fibers. Finally, put the cover back, throw away the old filter, and then find the next return vent. ‍ Case closed You should now be able to find all the spots where your filters need to be installed! If you are still uncertain and would like more assistance, a local HVAC technician would be able to find all the locations that need to be maintained easily. Just be sure to regularly check on your filters and change them out frequently to have clean air and a happy HVAC system! Or you could save some time by signing up for some pretty handy air filter subscription service. Just a thought.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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A Beginner's Guide to Weatherstripping

Do you know your weatherstripping? Drafts and air leaks exist in about every home in America. The edges of windows and doors are the primary enablers for this air outside your home to get inside your home and vice versa. Drafts may not seem like a major issue, but over time they can really drive up your power bill as conditioned air escapes, and they can introduce lots of foreign pollutants from outside into your home. In short, it's something worth fixing, especially since it usually takes about five minutes and 20 dollars to do so. ‍ So how do you actually accomplish this task? With the magic of weatherstripping. Weatherstripping is basically strips of materials that you adhere to doors and windows. These materials, if installed correctly, seal the edges of doors and windows when they're closed, preventing the movement of air any nasty stuff in the air. Pro Tip: Weatherstripping is commonly associated with wintertime, but it's just as valuable in the summer as it is in the cold months. How do I know if I need weatherstripping The first step in identifying where your home needs weatherstripping is to test for air leaks in places that are most vulnerable. There are a handful of do-it-yourself options for this, or you can hire a professional to conduct an energy audit. A professional energy auditor will give you precise answers to where you need weatherstripping, in addition to other useful information. ‍ If you wish to opt for the DIY versions, there are a couple ways to test for insufficient seals. ‍Related: What is the resident benefits package? The flashlight test This requires two people and it needs to be at night. So grab a friend, child, or spouse, promise to buy them a bottle of wine for their help (unless your children are helping—please do not buy wine for your children), and get to work. ‍ The test, which works best for doors, is pretty simple. One person takes a flashlight outside once it's completely dark out. Close the door behind them and have them shine the light all around the door and surrounding areas. If you can see light coming through at any point, that's a point where you have an insufficient seal and should consider adding weatherstripping. ‍ The moisture test The moisture test only requires one person and can be done at any time of day, but it's helpful if it's done on a cold day. If you're looking to save money this summer, you may want to pick a different test. ‍ The moisture test is also pretty simple. Wet your hand with some room temperature water and then feel your way around the edges of the door or window. The moisture will cause your hand to feel cold if it comes in contact with air from the outside (again, this only works on a cold day). If it feels cool, go ahead and add some weatherstripping. ‍ The dollar bill test This test is specific to doors and requires the use of a single dollar bill. Open your door and place a dollar bill in between the door jamb and the door itself, then close the door. Grab the bill and try to pull it out. If it slides out easily, time for some weatherstripping. ‍ The smoke test The final test you can try for a draft in your home is what we'll call the smoke test. This involves lighting a candle or match and holding it behind your door or window. Watch the smoke carefully for changes in how it moves. If incoming air effects the smoke stream, it's a good bet you're losing money and warm/cool air through a draft. Time to do some weatherstripping. ‍ The different varieties of weatherstripping Who knew weatherstripping could be this complicated? It turns out there are a ton of different kinds of weatherstripping, some of which perform better in certain situations than others. We're going to simplify this down as much as possible. ‍ There are several different varieties to pick from. We did some research for you, and hopefully, this can help you become a weatherstripping expert—or just learn what you need to make an informed decision. ‍ V-Seal V-Seal is probably the most common type of weatherstripping that is used within the home. Its name comes from the V shape that it takes when you fold it down the middle, which allows it to line the inside edges of window and door frames. It can come with adhesive backing for easy installation, or it can come without one and requires nailing in. If installed correctly, V-Seal can be among the most durable weatherstripping options. ‍ Felt Inexpensive and less durable, felt is sort of the "old news" of the weather stripping community. It's sold in rolls and can be installed stand-alone or with a metal strip for reinforcement. It's useful in doorways where it is affixed or nailed to the door jamb. That way, when the door closes, it compresses the material and blocks out air. It's important to note that felt does not work well in high moisture conditions. Felt is known as the cheapest and one of the easiest options. ‍ Door Sweep The type of weatherstripping best designed to seal out air coming in from underneath the door is what is known as the door sweep. Drafts usually exist at the bottom of doors facing outdoors, which is why this type of weatherstripping exists. You'll often find two options: a metal or plastic strip that you screw into the bottom of the door and a brush, or piece of nylon that extends to the floor (the sweep). If installed correctly, this will cover the entire space beneath the door. Some versions actually slide onto the bottom of the door instead of being nailed into the bottom of the door. ‍ Foam Tape Foam Tape is sort of like of felt except slightly more advanced. While the application is very similar, foam is of higher quality than felt. It usually comes with an adhesive backing for easy installation. Also like felt, it's one of the less durable options and should not be installed in high moisture areas. ‍ Rubber tubing This type of weatherstripping may have a variety of different names, but its construction is rubber with adhesive backing. Installation is similar to that of foam tape. Still, the rubber will last longer and is not as vulnerable in moist conditions. It can also provide waterproofing in addition to fighting off air leaks. ‍ Outlet Gaskets One place you might not expect to find an air leak is at your outlets and light switches, but surprisingly, these areas can be just as vulnerable to drafts as your doors and windows. Luckily, covers that seal up these places are cheap and take only a minute to install. It's as simple as removing the plastic covering from the outlet or switch, inserting the foam gasket behind it (make sure you punch out the holes first), and then reinstall the cover. That's it. That's literally it. You should be able to do your entire house for under $20. ‍ Weatherstripping is one of the easiest and most useful do-it-yourself tasks for your home. It's relatively inexpensive, can take only a handful of minutes to install, and will leave you knowing you made your home healthier and more efficient with this quick and easy DIY project.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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How to Clean and Stain Your Deck this Spring

Which deck cleaners and stains are best for you, and how do you ensure a professional level clean without hiring a professional? We have a Spring! Winter appears to finally be releasing its grip on most of the country, giving way to warmer temperatures, blooming plants, and the incessant need to clean. It’s what we call Spring cleaning, and undoubtedly you’ve heard the term. ‍ If you’re ready to kick off spring cleaning but have no idea where to start, you’ve arrived at the right web address. With the weather warming and all of us itching to take advantage of the suddenly pleasant outdoors, preparing your back deck for usage is an excellent place to kick things off. So let’s do it. ‍Related: What is the resident benefits package? Prep your deck Chances are you haven’t spent a lot of time on your deck or porch over the last couple months, on account of the whole winter situation. Now that spring has sprung, it’s about time to take advantage of the milder weather that’s coming. ‍ Now at this time of year, your deck is almost certainly not in the best shape of its life. If you have a wooden deck, the lack of use throughout the winter has allowed the wood to lose its color a little, become stained as a result of leaves and tree bark being left on it, and be victimized by the growth of certain mildews. ‍ That’s normal though, and some spring cleaning will revitalize its look. Step one is to make sure that you clear everything off your deck. This includes any furniture, lights, or accessories that you may have out there. It also includes all the debris that has fallen during the winter and found a new home on your deck. Be sure to clear off leaves, tree bark, pine straw, or any other trash that nature left out there. ‍ It’s a good idea to sweep your deck of this stuff throughout winter, as dead leaves and other junk are responsible for pesky tannin stains that leave you with more work come spring. ‍ SN Tip: During this step, it may also be a good idea to move any potted plants near the deck away, as you will be working with chemicals. ‍ Clean your deck Step two is where you’re going to apply your deck cleaner. There are lots of different kinds of deck cleaners, but most professionals agree that a one-two punch of an oxygen bleach cleaner and an oxalic acid cleaner is the best and safest route. ‍ Oxygen bleach will target mold that has grown on and in your deck over the cold months. It’s non-toxic and breaks down into sodium bicarbonate and oxygen, which is the long way to say that it won’t be harmful to you or your deck, unlike the more common chlorine bleach. ‍ SN Tip: Apply cleaners to an inconspicuous area of your deck before covering the whole surface with them, so you can see what effect they will have without any risk. ‍ Oxalic acid is the follow-up treatment for the visual appearance of your deck. While ineffective against mold, which is why you need a one-two punch, oxalic acid will work wonders removing stains caused by leaves and debris as well as brightening the wood and refreshing the appearance of the wood. ‍ SN Tip: Oxalic acid is toxic, so be sure you know how to handle toxic materials and if you’re uncomfortable with it, consider alternatives, such as citric acid. ‍ Apply the oxygen bleach first with a stiff bristle synthetic brush. A synthetic brush is always better because it will last longer amid repeated uses involving chemicals. Spread the bleach across the deck with the brush while avoiding pooling of the cleaner in any spots. After rinsing, repeat this step with oxalic acid. ‍ We recommend this process, ending with a thorough rinse with a garden hose. You could also go the power washing route, but it’s critical to remember that most decks are made of cedar, redwood, or pine, all of which are softwoods. Softwood is, as the name implies, soft, making it vulnerable to scarring, stripping, and scratching. ‍ The intense pressure of a power washer can strip off the top of the wood, leaving indentations across your entire deck. If you’re determined to go the power washing route, you need to make sure the pressure isn’t too much for the wood to handle. Adjust the angle of the nozzle to decrease pressure and wash in a sweeping motion to avoid a consistent stream of pressurized water on the same part of your deck. A 40 to 60-degree angle is recommended by professionals such as the folks at decks.com. It’s also wise to pressure wash earlier in the year, as cooler temperatures will increase the wood’s density and make it slightly more resistant to the power of the pressure washer. ‍ If you don’t wish to go the pressure washing route, soaps and a regular garden hose will work great, and you’ll still have a product to be proud of without the risk of ruining your entire deck. Stain your deck The final step is to reseal if necessary. You probably stained and/or sealed your deck shortly after it was constructed, but it’s a smart idea to recoat it every two to three years. ‍ SN Tip: While a deck seal and deck stain are not technically the same thing, a quality deck stain will seal your deck effectively and give it a nice coloration of your choice. If you wish to maintain the natural look of your wood, use only a sealer. ‍ First, you need to test the current state of your stain. Drop a little bit of water on the surface of your dry deck, then closely examine the water droplets. If the droplets soak into the wood, it’s time to touch up your deck. If they just sit on top, there’s no need to break out the stain. ‍ If you find that you need to reapply stain, the process isn’t overly complicated. The most important part is to make sure the weather doesn’t ruin all your hard work. You don’t want the temperature outside to be too hot or too cold, but since you’re probably doing this in spring, that shouldn’t be an issue. ‍ Also, make sure you have a couple of days of dry weather and never apply the stain in direct sunlight. Rain will wash out the stain before it can set and a high sun beating on your deck will cause the stain to dry too quickly, stopping it from thoroughly permeating the wood and making the entire job a waste of time. ‍ Now the fun begins. First, identify any trouble areas where your stain is peeling off the wood. If you have none of these, congrats, you’ve avoided one step of this process. If you do, you’ll need to strip off any loose stain and sand it down to remove any abrupt or sharp edges. This will allow for a more uniform replacement coat. We talked earlier about power washers and how they can strip your stain and damage your wood if you use them on your deck without caution. Coincidentally, a power washer is a great tool when you actually do want to strip your deck. At the right pressure rating, your power washer will be able to rip off the loose parts of your stain without damaging the still functional parts of the coat. Use a power sander to sand down the area afterward. ‍ After the area has completely dried, use a paintbrush to touch up the stripped area. Apply stain to the entire area and allow it to dry completely. If you only have one trouble area and the rest of your deck’s stain is still kicking, you can probably be done here, although recoating the entire deck won’t hurt. ‍ If you have several trouble areas, it’s best to just recoat the entire deck. Use a paint roller to apply a thin coat of sealer to the top of your deck boards. Cover the entire deck while maintaining a thin uniform coat. Avoid pooling of the sealer and break out that paintbrush to ensure evenness in hard to reach areas. ‍ After your stain coat has dried, you’re ready to enjoy the outdoors and the (hopefully) nice spring weather from the comfort of your deck.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Five Easy Steps to Allergy-Proof Your Home

Here are five easy ways to make your home less conducive to allergens. For many of us, spring is the season of allergies. While it may be the worst season for a lot of people, allergies can be an all-year-long issue. It's true, the outdoors can be a treacherous place for a lot of people in the summer, fall, and even the dead months of winter. While you can't get rid of the allergens floating around outside, you can take steps to minimize the amount of allergens that can get inside your home. Here are five tips to allergy-proof your home. ‍Related: What is the resident benefits package? Wash clothes frequently Allergens can enter your home in many ways, with one of the most common involving hitching a ride on your clothes. The best way to counter this, obviously, is to wash your clothes frequently and at the right temperature. ‍ It's no secret that hot water is best. Hot water kills pesky allergens like dust mites and is more effective than cold water at removing particles like pollen from clothes. ‍ A study from the American Thoracic Society1 recently showed that washing clothes at 140ºF will kill 100% of dust mites. Washing at a still quite hot 104ºF will kill less than 7% of dust mites. That’s quite a big difference and essential for those with allergies. ‍ That's the upside to washing your clothes in hot water: it's excellent at cleaning allergens and particles out of them. The downside is that it costs more to heat the water to 140ºF, and not all articles of clothing can be washed in that level of heat. If you're not able to kill allergens with hot water, there are alternatives. ‍ Most newer washing machines out there have sanitize wash settings. This setting washes your clothes with super hot water of at least 165ºF, which well exceeds the temperature necessary to kill pests and germs. ‍ You can purchase allergen-targeting laundry detergent. This detergent formula contains an additive known as ACARIL, which effectively removes allergens from bedding and clothes during the wash cycle. It works absent of temperature, so you don't need to wash your clothes on high heat for it to work, and it is safe to use with all colors and fabrics. If you already have a detergent that you like, you can purchase ACARIL by itself. ‍ Consider hardwood An allergen's dream home would be made entirely of carpet. The floor would be carpet. The walls would be the carpet. The ceiling would be carpet. You get the point. ‍ A carpet allergy is a two-fold attacker. Sometimes you're allergic to the actual carpet itself and the materials used to make it. More often, you're simply allergic to the common allergens that get caught in your carpet and then released into the air when you walk on it. ‍ Carpet is a repository for allergens. Dust can build up inside of it with ease and be extremely difficult to remove. Particles like pet dander that feature jagged edges stick to carpet without any effort. In fact, all of these allergens are commonly found in household carpets. Pollen Dander Dust Mold Smoke Bacteria ‍ Indeed, some people are actually allergic to certain materials in carpets. But most people that have a "carpet allergy" actually just have an intolerance to an allergen that has entrenched itself in their carpets. One potential solution is just to get rid of the carpet altogether. This is actually recommended by multiple allergy-focused organizations including the American Lung Association2. ‍ Opting for hardwood floors instead can save the allergy sufferer a lot of sneezing. Particles in your air will still settle on hardwood just like they do on carpet, but they are considerably easier to remove with a vacuum because they cannot get stuck inside the material. ‍ You can still add throw rugs to get that homey feel while minimizing allergens. Make sure to buy washing machine safe ones and simply run a load of rugs about once a week. ‍ The downside with hardwood is obviously the price, and if that's enough of a deterrent, or you just really really want carpet, you have a few options. First, always use low pile carpeting. "Low pile" simply means that the strands of material that make up the carpet are shorter. With this type of carpet, the crevices for allergens to hide in are smaller, making it harder for them to get stuck, making them easy to remove with a vacuum. Never ever ever use high pile carpeting if you have a common allergy. You will not enjoy your time with it. ‍ Weatherstripping One way that sneaky particles like pollen and bacteria can get into your home is through drafts and incomplete seals along windows and doors. Sealing off those unintentional airways with some weatherstripping is a quick and generally pretty easy way to keep those allergens out of your home. ‍ Weatherstripping's primary goal is to lower your energy bill, but cutting off sources of air pollution is a secondary benefit of this home maintenance task. Weatherstripping is especially valuable in this role to homes in places that see higher than average levels of outdoor air pollution such as Los Angeles. ‍ There are tons of different types of weatherstripping, most of which can be used in several situations and are extremely easy to install. First, you have to figure out if you have drafts and where they are. An energy audit from a professional will give you detailed descriptions of where you need to add weatherstripping. If you prefer to conduct the search yourself, there are a few ways to identify drafts. Flashlight test Moisture test Dollar bill test Smoke test ‍ There are tons of different types of weatherstripping, many of which are adhesive-backed, making their installation process as easy as sticking it to something. Others require nailing in, such as a door sweep, which protects your home from drafts coming from underneath doors. Read more about all the types of weatherstripping right here. ‍ Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter Make sure to invest in a quality vacuum that will suck up allergens from all types of flooring and keep them locked away until you clean it out. The way to do this is to purchase a vacuum that contains a HEPA filter. HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particle Arrestance—it's basically a supercharged filter. ‍ A true HEPA filter is required to catch at least 99.7% of particles larger than 0.3 microns in diameter. That's extremely tiny. ‍ You cannot use a HEPA filter in your home because it will cut off too much airflow to the HVAC unit, but that is not an issue inside a vacuum. Get a vacuum with the best filter you possibly can to ensure that it traps as many tiny allergens as possible. This will stop pollutants from recirculating into the air. ‍ Change your air filter Bar-none, the most effective way to improve your IAQ of allergens is to use a high quality air filter and change it with regularity. Like weatherstripping, this will also help lower your energy bill, but its primary function is cleaning the air. ‍ Many pollutants that infiltrate the air you breathe are so small they aren't cute anymore. No matter how many precautions you take to protect your home's air from the threats outside, some pollutants will still get inside. To get these out of your house, you need a filter you can trust to catch these pollutants. ‍ A fiberglass air filter can never be counted on to catch even medium-sized pollutants, much less small ones. These pollutants will simply recirculate through your ductwork and back into your home, where they're free to be inhaled into your lungs. The ones that don't will get caught in your HVAC system and create buildup that can lead to costly repairs or breakdown. ‍ Washable filters may get these small particles, but they'll struggle with larger ones, which there are usually more of and just as harmful to your indoor air quality. ‍ Instead, get a pleated air filter with a MERV 8 rating or higher. If you suffer from allergies, own pets, or deal with various pollution issues, upgrade to a MERV 11 or MERV 13 filter. Pollutants that get past all your initial defenses and enter the air in your home won't last long against a pleated air filter. ‍ Turns out that de-allergyifiyng (definitely a real word) your home just requires a few routine practices that you probably already do anyway. You just need to adjust how you do them slightly. Some things you can even take off your to-do list instead of adding them, such as changing your air filter. Check out Second Nature's air filters subscription service to never have to think about using the right air filter again.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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How to Tell if a Window Seal is Broken & How to Fix it

Learn how to identify a broken window seal and what your best options are for dealing with it. There are a lot of home improvement projects that can be a lot of fun to do. Resealing a window is decidedly not one of them. If your home features double pane windows, it will, unfortunately, be something you will have to do at some point. Window seals will wear down over time and eventually need repair or replacement. So how do you know if your window needs repair, and how do you know what to do about it if it does? ‍ What is a double pane window? A double pane window, also known as a dual pane window or thermopane window, is simply a window with two panes of glass instead of one. If you don’t know what a pane is, it’s just the sheet of glass that fits within the window frame. Double panes have two of these. Singles only have one. ‍ Your home most likely has double pane windows. Single pane windows are out of date, and triple pane, while they do exist, are not often opted for by homeowners. Double pane is pretty much the standard at this point. ‍ Double pane windows insulate your home better than single pane, offsetting the higher initial cost with lower monthly power bills. They can do this for two reasons, the first of which is obvious. There is more material between you and the outside world than there would be with only one pane. The second reason is argon gas, which is inserted between the window panes to assist in insulation. ‍ How can I tell if my double pane window is broken? The primary indicator of a broken window seal is moisture between the window panes. If your windows are foggy, but nothing happens when you try and wipe away the condensation, the fog is inside the window. That is the immediate and obvious sign that your window seal is broken. ‍ This moisture won’t always cover the whole window in fogginess. Often, you’ll be able to spot the moisture only in the corners in the form of fog or water droplets. Still, though, this means your seal is busted and needs a fix. ‍ Unfortunately, a broken seal does mean the insulating ability of the window is diminished. Outside air is getting inside, and the argon gas that helps insulate is escaping, extending the issues of a broken window seal well beyond its appearance. ‍ What are my options? Call in the warranty Most windows come with warranties when they are purchased. Try to buy windows with the longest warranties possible, as it can save you a lot of hassle should you ever need it. If your window is still under warranty, your problem is much smaller. Call in the warranty and have the window replaced. Done and done. ‍ Replace the window entirely If your window seal goes bad, and the warranty is expired, your first option is to replace the window entirely. This will be the most expensive option, but your brand new fully insulated window will save you money long-term on your power bills. You’ll likely want to be calling in a professional for this particular repair job. A good estimate for a professional window replacement is around $500 if you have a more common vinyl window. Replacing a wood frame window is always more expensive, sometimes costing more than $1000. ‍ Fix the seal If you don’t want to replace the entire window, there are other options, one of which is having just the seal itself fixed. Keep in mind this won’t bring your window back to full insulating power, as the insulating argon gas between the panes won’t be replaced. However, it will be considerably less expensive than replacing the whole window. Still, the decreased insulation will start to even the cost over time. ‍ Repairing a window seal could mean a few different things depending on where the seal is broken and how much of it is broken, but a fair estimate for the cost of a professional window seal repair is around $100. ‍ Leave the window the way it is If you find the seal break isn’t significant and is not resulting in material increases of your power bill or the fogging up of the window, you could leave it as-is. ‍ This is not recommended because the seal is only going to deteriorate more if left on its own. If you identify the busted seal but choose to do nothing because it isn’t currently an issue, it will likely become an issue down the road, so you might as well take care of it. ‍ Those of you that live in a more mild climate may find this to be a more appealing option. ‍ Defogging Defogging is a relatively new technique that is designed to fix the physical appearance of a window with a broken seal. This will do virtually nothing to correct the insulation problems but could be useful as a short-term solution if you need to fix the appearance of your window. ‍ A professional defogging service can conduct this for you. This involves drilling a tiny hole in the window pane and removing all the condensation between both. Next, an anti-fog solution is pumped into the window and the hole is sealed. This will, at least temporarily, restore the appearance of your window. The seal breakage still exists, though, so eventually, the window will fog back up. ‍ Is there a DIY option? Technically, you can replace a window on your own, but it’s by no means quick and easy. You’ll need a lot of tools and several hours to complete a window reinstallation, and it is generally recommended against doing so yourself unless you have the appropriate skillset. If you’re determined to do it yourself, the first step is examing the frame and deciding what shape it is in. You can use insert windows if your frame is in good shape, which just means a sticking a new window into an old frame. This is considerably easier than what is necessary if you need to replace the frame. Stripping out the entire frame and replacing the whole unit is a serious task that you can also do yourself. Just make sure you know what you are doing.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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What is HVAC & What Does it Mean?

HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. Whether it’s the dead of winter and the elements are as harsh as your mother-in-law’s criticism or you’re a walking puddle in the middle of August, a home’s HVAC system is what ensures your family is provided with a temperate, pleasant refuge from the great outdoors. Your HVAC system is critical to the comfort your home provides. HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning, and it simply refers to the system that heats, cools, and ventilates your home. HVAC systems vary and there are various manufacturers, styles, and types. The HVAC (generally) includes the heating and cooling unit itself, lots of ductwork through the home, air returns, and air filters. ‍Related: What is the resident benefits package? Types of HVAC systems There are three main types of HVAC systems: split and window AC, packaged heating and air conditioning systems, and central AC systems. ‍ Split and window air conditioning systems Split ACs are used in larger areas than window ACs. The split AC focuses on splitting the cold from the hot side of the system. The cold side has the cold coil and the expansion valve. This is usually placed inside a furnace or any other form of air handler. The handler blows air over the coil and the cooled air is distributed to various rooms in the building through the air ducts. ‍ Window air conditioners work by fans blowing air through the coils, improving how they separate the heat and cold. Heat gets lost the outside air and is replaced with cool air for the room. ‍ Packaged heating and air conditioning systems Hence the name, this type of system is the total package, they possess both heating and cooling equipment in a single unit. Users can place them in mechanical rooms, on the rooftop or at a grade close to the conditioning space. The package AC has all the components in one unit, unlike split systems in which the cold and hot units are separate. These elements have a centrifugal fan or blower that helps distribute the air throughout the elements of the structure. ‍ Central air conditioning Most of the air conditioners in residential buildings are in the form of split systems. The compressor and condenser are combined as a single condensing unit mounted outdoors. The evaporator, a finned coil, is mounted in a section of ductwork within the furnace blower. Two flexible refrigerant lines, one for gas and one for liquid, connect the components. When the furnace is electric, a blower is included in the system. The compressor uses electricity as its source of power to pump the refrigerant across the system collecting indoor heat and removing it from the home. The heat dissipates outdoors by the coil in the condensing unit. ‍ Warm air indoors gets blown through the indoor coil (cold) to remove moisture and heat. The heat in the air transfers to the coil and thus the air cools. The water vapor condenses on the coil and collects inside a drain pan. It goes outside through the condensate drain. The heat, after flowing to the evaporator coil, pumps outdoors while the now cooled air inside the room circulates through the fan on the air handler. Thus, the indoor temperature is maintained. ‍ Give your HVAC system a big thank you When all is working as it should with an HVAC system, it is a silent soldier for the home's comfort. However, if your HVAC system has ever malfunctioned or broken in the middle of the winter or summer, it’s likely you have developed a deep love and appreciation for the essential service your HVAC system provides. So, take care of your system; baby it, even. Be sure to change your filters frequently and on a regular schedule, as well as get your system cleaned, inspected, and serviced annually!

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Everything You Need to Know About Whole House Air Filters

Why do I need such a big air filter? There may not be a single product on earth less standardized than the home air filter. It’s the reason why nobody can ever find their size at the hardware store and the reason why we carry more than 66,000 sizes. ‍ One type that can be particularly difficult to locate in the local store is the whole house filter. These are very different than the more common one-inch filters. You may have heard them called whole house air purifiers, which is a misnomer. An air purifier is an addition to your HVAC system, not part of it. Although air filters do indeed clean the air, they are part of your system and not optional. Now that we've clarified that, let’s get back to it. ‍ As the name implies, the concept is defined by the need for only one filter per home. This is the most common setup, but it’s not always true in practice. You’ll need as many whole house filters as you have air handlers, which may vary depending on how your HVAC system is configured. ‍ An air handler (or AHU for Air Handler Unit) is a device used to regulate and circulate air. It literally “handles” your air. Some homes may have more than one air handler to regulate temperatures in different areas separately. ‍ What does it look like? Any filter three inches or thicker is designed to be a whole house filter. The most common thicknesses are four and five inches, while three- and six-inch varieties do exist. They feature the same construction as the common one-inch pleated filters with one distinction. Whole house filters offer significantly more surface area than one-inch filters because of the deep-v pleats that fill its nearly half-foot thick frame. ‍ With all filters, the “nominal size” of an air filter means the rounded size, where each dimension is rounded up or down to a whole number. There’s a standard undercut on one-inch filters, meaning that all one-inch filters measure ¼” to ½” smaller than their nominal size, but there is not a standard undercut on whole house filters. This means that two 25x20x5 filters may actually be different sizes entirely if they are made by different brands. Know the exact size you need, or you might end up with a whole house filter that doesn’t fit. ‍ With Second Nature, you can select your whole house filter by brand, so you know you’re getting exactly the right size every time. How does it differ? Besides its physical appearance, the primary difference between a whole house filter and a regular one-inch filter is the longevity. Because of its massive surface area, a whole house filter doesn’t need to be changed nearly as often. A replacement is typically required every six months instead of three, and in some cases, a change isn’t needed more often than once a year. Like any filter, the frequency of replacement is determined by what factors contribute to your air quality. Normal living situation with no pets? Six months will do. Lots of pets and live in a polluted area? Probably need to be changed more frequently, like every three to four months. Live in Fiji? Could probably stretch the lifespan of that filter. ‍ The difference in construction and longevity does not fundamentally alter the effectiveness of the filter at catching pollutants. Whole house filters still come in standard filtrating ratings (like MERV 8, 11, and 13) and filter similar types and percentages of particles. ‍ Does it cost more? Yes. A whole house filter is on average priced somewhere between about $25 and $35, with some pushing into the $40 range. While they’re more expensive than one-inch air filters, you also change them less frequently and usually only have one at a time. Even though a whole house air filter may cost up to four times as much as its smaller cousins, you could end up spending less on air filters per year (depending on your house and living situation). ‍ Where does it go? A whole house filter does not go in your wall like other air filters. These filters go into the ductwork directly in front of your HVAC unit. Some varieties have a housing or cartridge that they fit in before being installed while others are inserted directly into a slot in the duct. ‍ Should I get a whole house filter? Well, it’s not really up to you. Your house has what your house has. If you bought a home that uses a whole house air filter, then yes. If you bought one that doesn’t...well, you get the point. ‍ Hopefully, this clears up any questions regarding the mysterious whole house filter you may have. Feel free to reach out to us on Facebook if you have any more.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Easy Ways to Defeat Your Dust Mite Allergy

Dust mites don't bite but they can cause other problems. What’s the grossest bug you can think of? Cockroach? Nope. Centipede? Nope. Spider? Well yes, but there’s a different one that we’re thinking of: the dust mite. ‍ What do dust mites look like? These things are ugly. They’re nasty and kind of look like something from out of a horror movie. They’re also everywhere, including your home, your carpet, your bed, and even your face. ‍ Okay, we didn’t mean to scare you there. The dust mite may be everywhere, but it’s almost completely harmless and pretty normal to have around. The concern with dust mites doesn’t come from the bugs themselves. Dust mites cannot and do not bite. They are not parasites. The bugs themselves can’t do direct harm. The concern with these tiny little nasty looking things is the allergens they produce, resulting in dust mite allergies. ‍ That’s why, in today’s blog post, we’re going to talk about how to help with a dust mite allergy, answer common questions like “Does baking soda kill dust mites?” and more. First off, what are dust mites? ‍ What are dust mites and what do dust mites look like? This close up of a dust mite shows just how gross they really are. A dust mite is a microscopic pest that kind of looks like an insect but is technically not one. They look a lot like a teeny tiny cockroach, and they don’t have a face, which makes them more or less ugly depending on what you think of bug faces. You can’t see a dust mite with the naked eye, as adult ones are only about five micrometers long. That’s about the size of your average bacterium. ‍ Dust mites feed primarily on gross stuff like dander and skin cells, thus are frequently found in places where that stuff builds up like mattresses, couches, and linens. As most homes have these things, the vast majority of houses would have a detectable dust mite presence if tested. ‍ Dust mites can be tested for by collecting some dust and looking at it under a microscope. ‍ Where do dust mites live? As stated, dust mites love fabrics and places where dead skin cells collect. They’re big fans of dander and flakes of skin and prefer to eat that. Mattresses are often their go-to hideout as humans probably shed more skin cells there than anywhere else. Carpets, couches soft chairs, rugs, and curtains are also prime dust mite habitat. ‍ Humidity is an essential factor in your home’s ability to house and breed dust mites. These creatures don’t drink water, but instead, absorb it from the air around them. Because of this, they can become dehydrated and die in environments where the humidity levels are too low. ‍ Optimum conditions for growth and development are around 75-80 degrees F and 70-80 percent relative humidity. House dust mites absorb and lose moisture through their skin, and are very vulnerable to dehydration. Consequently, humidity levels within the home have a significant effect on survival. Dust mites cannot survive well at relative humidities below 50 percent. (Source: University of Kentucky Entomology Dept ) ‍ What are dust mite allergies? Dust mite allergies are a little like pet allergies in the sense that it isn’t the creature itself that you are allergic to, but rather a protein that it releases. These proteins are released from the mites when they shed skin and expel waste. ‍ These allergens build up on soft surfaces and can be sent in the air easily by the shaking out of sheets, lifting of couch cushions, or walking on carpets. Next thing you know, lots of allergens are populating your air. ‍ Dust mite allergies also don’t have a particular season, so symptoms happen year round. This is unfortunate for the more than 25 million Americans who have asthma, as dust mite allergies are prevalent among asthmatics and are often identified as the root cause of its development. ‍ Symptoms of dust mite allergies Sneezing Runny nose Itchy eyes Congestion Cough Can trigger an asthma attack ‍ How do you treat dust mite allergies? Want to know how to reduce a dust mite allergy? The most successful approach to treating dust mite allergies is to remove the things from your home that dust mites require to survive. This can be done with a couple of easy steps, which we’ll break down right here. ‍ First, it’s essential to understand that you’re never getting rid of all dust mites. There is always going to be some dust mites lumbering about in your home. You can, however, significantly reduce the number of them and make your home much healthier with some simple and routine items. ‍ Decrease the humidity Humidity is a vital environmental element for dust mites. They need a high level of humidity to survive, so stripping them of that is an effective way to make your home environment non-conducive to dust mites. ‍ A dehumidifier is the best way to do this. This home appliance does exactly what it sounds like: decrease the humidity. These devices work by pulling air into them like an air conditioner and then using a refrigerant to condense water vapor in the air into water droplets. The droplets then fall into a pan or reservoir that you empty when it's full. Quite simply, it pulls the water out of your air. ‍ Dehumidifiers come in a variety of sizes and a range of prices. The smallest is the portable kind, which works well for individual rooms like a bathroom or closet, and they start at only around $20. Larger dehumidifiers that work for entire areas of your home will cost into the hundreds, and whole-house models even exist that cost four digits. ‍ High humidity in the home contributes to the presence of more allergens than just dust mites. Molds and other fungi love humid environments. So a dehumidifier is an excellent way to tackle multiple different allergens and is how to help with a dust mite allergy. ‍ If you live in a southeastern state, where the air is made of soup during the summer, congratulations. You’re more vulnerable to dust mites in your home than most other places. Remove carpeting if possible. Another effective way to make your home a less appealing environment for dust mites is to remove as many soft surfaces as possible. Soft surfaces, like carpets, are predisposed to dust mites because of how well they hold pollutants like dust and skin cells. Removing carpets altogether seems extreme, and it may be in many cases. However, if you have severe dust mite allergies, it may be necessary. ‍ Hardwood floors will still accumulate allergens and allergy attractors like dust and skin cells on them. They’re much easier to clean though, and particles don’t get stuck inside them. ‍ If you elect to stick with carpet, be sure to get low-pile carpet. It is easier to clean and has less capacity for holding dust and particles. High-pile carpeting is pretty much an allergy-sufferers worst nightmare, so stay away from that. ‍ Vacuum and dust often. Routine cleaning of the surfaces in your home is an absolute must for dust mite allergy sufferers. Allergens that dust mites produce can settle quickly into dust and get suspended in the air with the dust particles. Dusting with a damp cloth or paper towel will help collect these allergens with the dust particles. You should dust at least once a week. ‍ Regardless of whether you have carpet or hardwood, include weekly vacuuming with your weekly dusting to remove allergens from your home. A vacuum designed to take on pet hair works well, as dander is often released with pet hair and is a primary attractor of dust mites. These vacuums typically come with a HEPA filter to trap small allergens like pet dander. A HEPA filter vacuum is critical for dust mite allergy sufferers because dust mite allergens are also quite small and could blow back into your home without said filter. ‍ Wash mattresses and sheets even more often. In addition to vacuuming and dusting your home’s surfaces, washing your bed sheets and covers at least once a week is an easy and effective countermeasure in the fight against dust mites. As mentioned above, mattresses and things on mattresses are spot number one for dust mites. You spend more time in your bed than any other place in your home, so naturally, this is where most of the dead skin will accumulate. ‍ Humidity is naturally increased on your mattress because you perspire when you sleep, adding to the attractiveness of the mattress to the dust mite. ‍ Wash your sheets, covers, and pillowcases at least once a week and make sure to wash in hot water. If hot water isn’t an option, you can opt for allergen-targeting laundry detergent. These detergents use an additive called ACARIL to specifically target allergens like dust mites and the things they eat. ‍ It’s pretty important to clean your mattress regularly too, as washing your linens only tackles part of the problem. If you’re wondering “Does baking soda kill dust mites?” the answer is yes! Baking soda is a pretty potent weapon against dust mites in your bed. Using it is a simple process as well. Add a little bit of essential oil to the baking soda and then spread it across the top of your mattress, then vacuum. This is a proven way to help rid your mattress of a dust mite infestation. ‍ Use of essential oils can help to kill the dust mites before the vacuuming begins. ‍ Use at least a MERV 8 pleated air filter. While Allergens produced by dust mites may not stay suspended in the air as long as other allergens, they can still enter the air very easily. Sitting down on a couch, falling onto your bed, or lifting your sheets to make your bed can send dust mite droppings and other allergenic mite products into the air you breathe. This creates a situation ripe for an allergic reaction. ‍ If you’re using a low-quality air filter, it might not catch these allergens, which allows them to cycle back into your home and the air you breath. Using a pleated air filter of at least a MERV rating of 8 will help to eliminate dust mite allergens from your home that are floating in the air. ‍ Take medication. If you find that eliminating the environment for dust mites isn’t working as well as you’d like, over-the-counter allergy medications like antihistamines and decongestants can treat your symptoms. These are usually inexpensive and available at about any grocery store or general store. ‍ Dust mites are pretty nasty, and the allergens they produce can be a real problem in your home. But now you know our proven tips for how to reduce a dust mite allergy. Luckily, with the right routine cleaning practices, you can make your home a much less appealing environment for these microscopic pests and a much more appealing environment for you and your family.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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What MERV Rating Should I Use?

Is a MERV 8 filter, MERV 10 filter, or MERV 13 filter right for your home? As you may know, we at Second Nature offer a selection of three differently rated air filters: Our Essential (MERV 8), Essential+ (MERV 10), and Health Shield (MERV 13). So, which one is right for you? ‍ As you try to make this decision, you'll need to answer several important questions: What if I have allergies? How different is each MERV rating? What's the best filter if I have a pet? Will any of these filters make my HVAC system work less efficiently? Who got sent home on The Bachelorette last week? ‍ In this week's blog, we have the answers to all of these questions and so much more. Don't be MERVous. After you finish reading, we guarantee you'll know what you need to know about MERV ratings so you can make an informed decision. ‍ Already know what you need? Go ahead of check filters off your to-do list right now! To kick things off, we'll give you a basic rundown of everything MERV. What exactly is MERV? How does the MERV rating system work? What's pressure drop? Essential MERV 8 Filter Essential+ MERV 10 Filter Health Shield MERV 13 Filter What is MERV Rating? MERV, otherwise known as Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value, is a system used to evaluate the efficiency of an air filter based on how effective it is at catching particles of varying sizes. Basically, the higher the MERV rating, the higher the air filtration capabilities of a particular filter. ‍ How does the MERV rating system work? Well, MERV ratings range from 1 to 20, with 1 being the lowest level of filtration, and 20 being the highest. Filters that are MERV 16 through 20 are usually only found in hospitals, cleanrooms, and nuclear power plants. The home air filters you're looking for have a MERV rating anywhere between MERV 5 and 13. We, however, do not endorse any filter that has a MERV rating lower than a MERV 8, and filters below MERV 5? We don't even talk about those. ‍ Filters rated below a MERV 5 are basically the wet socks of air filters. Please don't use them and embarrass your air return like that. Your indoor air quality deserves better. ‍ MERV ratings are determined by a filter's effectiveness at filtering particles of different sizes. Specifically, we're talking about 12 differently sized particles from 0.3 to 10 micrometers (µm) in diameter that were created in a laboratory environment. For reference, a human hair is about 50 µm, and the smallest particles that can be identified by the human eye are about 40 µm. These 12 particles are then divided up into three different size ranges (E1, E2, and E3), and four subranges that exist within each range. The first range, E1, includes particles sized 0.3 to 1.0 µm. E2 includes particles sized 1.0 to 3.0 µm, and E3 encompasses particles sized 3.0 to 10.0 µm. ‍ The next step in the MERV ratings test? Each filter will go through six tests per particle size (72 tests total) to determine its MERV rating. In each test, the total number of particles in the test will be counted before being sprayed through the filter, and then counted again after. The end count compared to the total amount of particles is then converted into a percentage representing how many particles were successfully filtered out of the air. The worst percentage out of the six tests is selected as the official measurement used to determine a filter's MERV rating. That's where the minimum in MERV comes from. If we didn't use the worst score, it would just be called ERV, which is nowhere near as cool of a name. ‍ Check out this chart below for more on E1, E2, and E3 particles: Now, on to pressure drop! What's pressure drop? In simple terms, pressure drop is basically air resistance. Your air filter is a literal barrier between your HVAC system and your vents, and that slows the ability of air to get pulled through your vents to your actual system. How much your HVAC’s air flow is slowed by a filter is equivalent to its pressure drop. ‍ Pressure drop varies based on the MERV filter. Filters that are more tightly woven make it harder for air to pass through. This creates a decrease in air flow and a higher pressure drop. As long as you have an air filter installed in your air return, there's no way to avoid pressure drop. ‍ Even MERV 1 - 4 fiberglass filters have a pressure drop, though it is minimal. These cheap filters will have little impact on air flow at the expense of having little impact on air quality. The reason that pressure drop is so low for a fiberglass filter is because it is extremely porous and as a result, ineffective at filtering. Finer particles will have no problem at all getting through a fiberglass filter, and those that are larger will be filtered out less effectively than by a pleated filter. ‍ Really fiberglass? C' mon, you literally have one job. ‍ Pleated filters that are MERV 8 to 13, unlike fiberglass, can both filter out small particles effectively and diminish pressure drop (this here is as close to MERVana that you can get). Even though pleated filters do have a slightly higher initial pressure drop, it is not so significant as to cause any harm to your HVAC system, as long as you’re changing your filters regularly. ‍ Be aware that as time goes on, more dirt, dander, mold, and dust will be trapped by your filter, reducing air flow and therefore increasing pressure drop. So, make sure you’re replacing your air filter regularly to prevent this from happening. A filter replacement every two to three months will do the trick to make sure your HVAC system sees no decrease in functionality. ‍ Ok, now that we've got all of that covered, it's time to meet the MERV filters. ‍ Essential MERV 8 Filter First up, it's Essential, our MERV 8 filter. What does an Essential filter out of the air? It takes care of all the basics: pollen, dust, dust mites, mold, and bacteria. Who should own a Essential? Homeowners who don't live near smoke pollution and who don't share a household with any allergy-suffers or pets. What's the filtration efficiency? To be classified as a MERV 8 filter according to NAFA (National Air Filtration Association), a filter must filter out at least 70% of E3 (3.0-10.0 µm) particles and 20% of E2 (1.0-3.0 µm) particles. Essential actually exceeds that requirement. In addition to 70% of E3 particles, it also filters out 30% of E2 particles and 1.9% of E1 (0.3-1.0 µm) particles. Since it is a MERV 8 filter, it isn't designed to catch the smallest of small particles that fall into the E1 category, like pet dander. In addition, after conducting standard dust tests, it was found that Essential had an arrestance rate of 81.5%. This means that 81.5% of dust particles fed into the MERV filter were successfully filtered out of the air. Okay, so how about pressure drop? Our pressure drops tests were conducted at pretty standard air flow rates for the average HVAC system. At these rates, we found that Essential's initial pressure drop is around 0.024". This is very low, and barely different from the pressure drop of a MERV 1-4 fiberglass filter. ‍ Try Essential ‍ Essential+ MERV 10 Filter Next, we'd like to introduce our Essential+ filter. This is our MERV 10 and mid-level MERV filter. What does a Essential+ filter out of the air? Everything that the Essential does, so pollen, dust, dust mites, mold, and bacteria. In addition, you can say goodbye to that pet dander that's been floating around. Who is a Essential+ perfect for? Pet owners, of course! Also, anyone who has mild allergies or is just looking for additional filtration. How efficient is it? MERV 10 filters should remove at least 85% of E3 particles, 65% of E2 particles, and 20% of E1 particles from the air. Our Essential+ filter removes a minimum of 87.9% of E3 particles, 65.6% of E2 particles, and 24.4% of E1 particles. You know nothing much, just going above and beyond as usual. In the standard dust tests we conducted, Essential+ had a total particle arrestance of 92.5% (Sorry Lite, Micro's got you beat). What about pressure drop? Our Essential+ filter has an initial pressure drop that's slightly higher than the Essential+, but not by anything significant as it comes in at about 0.03 WG. This is no surprise as this filter does provide an extra level of filtration. ‍ Try Essential+ ‍ Health Shield MERV 13 Filter Last, but most definitely not least, we have our Health Shield MERV 13 filter. This filter has our highest MERV rating. What does a Health Shield filter out of the air? The answer to this, my friend, is a whole lot. For starters, it filters everything that a Health Shield does, which includes pollen, dust, dust mites, mold, bacteria, and pet dander. Then, it also filters out cooking oil smoke, smoke, smog, AND virus carriers. What else is left? We sure can't think of anything. Who should own a Health Shield filter? Homeowners with more than one pet in the home and those who have severe allergies. People that live in heavily polluted areas or experience smoke pollution in the summertime will benefit from a Health Shield, as smoke particles are very small and hazardous to your health. How about efficiency? As specified by NAFA, to be labeled as MERV 13, a filter must successfully remove at least 90% of E3 particles, 85% of E2 particles, and 50% of E1 particles. Our Health Shield filter removes a minimum average of 97.2% of E3 particles, 85.5% of E2 particles, and 50.2% of E1 particles. As you can see, this filter is extremely effective. In standard dust tests that were conducted, our Health Shield filter had a total particle arrestance of 98.1% (Looks like we have a winner). How's the pressure drop looking? Since it does provide the highest level of filtration, the Health Shield filter has the highest initial pressure drop at about 0.053 WG, which still should not pose any threat to your HVAC system. ‍ Try Health Shield ‍ Well, there you have it. Now you're a MERV ratings expert and the time has come to choose your fighter. Will it be Essential, Essential+, or Health Shield? Make your choice here. Just an FYI, but filters ranging from MERV 1 through MERV 4 typically only remove less than 20% of E3 particles. One more time for the people in the back, anything under MERV 5 = very bad.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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How to Get Mold out of Carpet

Removing mold from your carpet can be a tough task. Let us simplify it for you. Your home is your haven, and you are proud of your constant dedication to keeping it clean. You have a checklist and a go-to cleaning solution for everything. But what do you do after you have been hit with a leaky ceiling or a plumbing issue, and all of a sudden you discover a stain on your carpet that you hadn't noticed before? ‍ Mold growing in your home can easily go undetected. Knowing what triggers mold growth and what steps you can take to prevent it is something every homeowner should know. Removing mold from easily accessible areas like counters or bathrooms may only take a simple cleaning spray, but eliminating mold from a multilayered surface such as carpet requires a more thorough, deep clean. To understand how to remove mold, you first need to understand what mold is and how it develops. How Problematic Can Mold Be On Your Health How Does Mold Grow On Carpet Steps To Remove Mold From Carpet Steps To Prevent Mold Forming In Carpet How Problematic Can Mold Be On Your Health? Mold spores are tiny structures naturally found in the air. They are attracted to and rely on moist conditions to thrive. They also have no problem finding their way into your home. They can travel through doors, windows, heating and cooling systems, or even hitch a ride on your clothes or pets. Once they have found a conducive environment, such as your carpet, and have combined with the dust in your home, the perfect condition has been created for mold to grow. ‍ Mold spores will exist in your home air in some capacity. They’re everywhere and not really harmful at low levels. The key to successfully "managing" mold spores is keeping it from collecting in large numbers. (That's when you actually get a mold problem.) To do this, one must deprive the spores of moisture, cellulose, and time. ‍ When left untreated, mold can impact your health in several ways. According to the EPA, it releases allergens and can even release toxic substances, called Mycotoxins. If touched or inhaled, it can result in throat, skin, and eye irritation, as well as coughing and a stuffy nose. In more severe cases, when coupled with a weakened immune system, mold inhalation can even cause respiratory infections or bronchitis, as well as exacerbate symptoms in asthma sufferers. ‍ How Does Mold Grow On Carpet? Carpet is the perfect environment to trap and hide mold. This is especially true in especially wet areas such as your bathroom or basement. The thick, woven material, along with the carpet's backing, can easily absorb and retain moisture for an excessive amount of time. Carpet offers a complex structure comprised of many cellulose-based products. Wet carpet is mold’s dreamworld, so if it becomes moist, it creates that perfect environment needed for mold growth. Mold spores landing on the carpet use the moisture and cellulose to begin their germination process and are well on their path to becoming mold. Leaks, flooding, or even carpet that was cleaned but not thoroughly dried can result in mold growth. ‍ Although mold only takes a couple of days to grow, it may take up to three weeks to become visible and may not even reach the carpet's surface. Mold is likely to develop and fester under the carpet's surface, making it undetectable. Oftentimes, once it has become visible, it has reached a point of severity where the carpet is no longer salvageable. Eventually, mold left untreated can even end up damaging the baseboards beneath your carpet. Although catching mold before it has become visible is difficult, it is not impossible. If you notice your carpet is damp, or that a musty smell has developed, it may be time to unveil a portion of your carpet and do some further investigation. Any case of discoloration or odor on your carpet's surface that seems to be mildew-like might be a sign that mold is present. It is crucial that any moisture detected on your carpet is addressed within 24 to 48 hours before it has a chance to fully develop into mold. ‍ Steps To Remove Mold From Carpet. Once you have diagnosed your carpet with mold, it is essential you act immediately. Be sure to keep the area cut off from the rest of your home. Mold can quickly and easily spread, turning a small issue into a significant project—and not the fun kind of project. There are two approaches to cleaning mold from your carpet. You can use natural products, or you can attack the area with stronger chemicals. Before handling any potentially moldy areas in your home, it is vitally important that you protect your face and hands. Face masks and gloves will go a long way in ensuring that the mold and cleaning chemicals do not affect your health. It is equally important to note that you should not mix cleaning solutions unless otherwise specified, as this can create toxic fumes that would be hazardous to your health. An age-old remedy to removing mold from carpet is to apply baking soda, leaving it overnight to treat the affected area, absorbing moisture and bad odors. Something as simple as baking soda is actually the best mold remover in many circumstances. Vacuum the next day and proceed to scrub with vinegar using a stiff bristle brush. A vacuum with a HEPA filter will help collect remaining mold spores, but the vacuum's filter will need to be changed before next use, or you will be at risk of spreading these spores to other areas of your house, contaminating it once again. If your vacuum does not have a HEPA filter, it is recommended to substitute this step with a broom and dustpan. The carpet then needs to be dried as quickly as possible. You can do so by ventilating the room with open windows and running your A/C. Extra fans or dehumidifiers are also helpful to expedite this drying process. Vacuums without high-grade filtration will send mold spores back into your air, leaving them free to float around and land somewhere else they find suitable to colonize. A more aggressive approach to removing mold is to use a solution made for just that. Mold-removing products, like Allersearch ADMS Anti-Allergen Spray, can be found at your local hardware store. It is essential that the excess spray is removed using a brush, discarding the mold that you scrape out into a trash bag. Using water will only increase the risk of mold returning. After scrubbing, continue to dry the carpet using the same process recommended for the natural mold removal approach. If you are cleaning mold from a rug, opt to dry the rug outside in direct sunlight for 48 hours, as this will reduce the risk of mold returning. These tips apply to all the rugs in your home that may have fallen victim to mold growth. UV rays from the sun can actually help to kill mold spores. Of course, if mold has spread to a larger than manageable area, it may be best to seek help from a professional. Although mold remediation is expensive, costing upwards of $2,000, you can be sure the affected areas will be properly treated. As important as it is to treat mold, it is equally important to determine the underlying cause of the mold's growth and to resolve that issue simultaneously. Mold due to flooding, a leak in the roof, or an unsealed crawlspace will come back if those problems are not treated immediately. ‍ Steps To Prevent Mold Forming In Carpet. Routine is key to preventing mold from forming in your carpet. Having a weekly regimen in place will help you stay proactive in the constant fight to keep your home a healthy one. Below are some tips that will keep you one step ahead of mold: Regularly use a dehumidifier in areas prone to higher humidity to help keep moisture levels from reaching a point where mold spores need to grow. Anywhere from 30% to 50% humidity is normal for the inside of your home. It is important to check humidity levels frequently as they can change throughout the day. A/C units can also help manage humidity in your home. Keep your home well ventilated by opening windows. This is an easy way to reduce moisture in your home. Vacuuming often will help keep the dust that accompanies mold at bay. Steam clean any wet areas as this will help remove any toxins found in your carpet. Do not install carpet in areas where moisture is often present. Clean rugs in bathrooms or basements often. Do your homework when installing carpet. Be sure to choose moisture resistant padding and check that it is installed correctly. Regularly replace your home air filters with ones that guarantee they filter out allergens such as dust and mold. Mold can be scary, but removing it from your home is pretty easy. Remember, as your mother always said, "A healthy home is a happy home," and "Prevention is the best medicine." And if she didn't say that, I'm sure she was still a great mom.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Nominal Size vs Actual Size: Nominal Size Defined

It's not as confusing as it sounds. Often times, you will find two sizes on your air filters, a "nominal" size, and an "actual" size. What are nominal sizes? Nominal size is the size you see printed on the side of your air filter. It stems from the actual size, which is rounded up to the nearest whole inch. There are hundreds of filter sizes and although manufacturers may make slight changes and offer very slight differences in their many filter sizes, the nominal size system ensures that you, the consumer, can fall back on industry standards and not have to have custom air filters made every time you need some clean air. ‍ Think of it this way: what if every brand of smartphone had a different charger? Fortunately, manufacturers have agreed to standardize their cables (for the most part) so that all modern iPhone chargers are the same and most Android chargers are the same. Thankfully, the people who built your home agreed to follow a similar practice. ‍ What are actual sizes? The actual size is just what it says: the actual size of your air filter to a very precise degree. The actual size is accurate to one eighth of one inch. So for example: ‍ A standard filter with a nominal size of 14"x14"x1" might have an actual size of 13¾" x 13¾" x ¾". ‍ This actual size would be a pain to search for, which is why the nominal measurement was created. ‍ So which one do I use? The nominal size is the only one you really need to know when you look for air filters and it is typically printed on the cardboard edge of your air filter.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Does Higher MERV Rating Restrict Airflow?

How will a higher-quality filter impact the airflow to my HVAC unit. ‍ The short answer is that it can, but it's not really an issue except under extreme circumstances. Most modern HVAC systems have no problem working with higher MERV filters, which is why millions of homeowners depend on them. The primary risk with high-efficiency air filters comes from them being left unchanged for long periods of time. If you stay on top of changing your filters, It's unlikely you'll experience any filter-driven issues with your HVAC system. ‍ Try Second Nature You want to achieve a nice balance Like everything in life and nature, we want to strive for an ideal balance. In this case, you want to have your air as clean as possible without restricting the airflow to your HVAC unit and wasting energy. Some could compare the situation to the fairy tale of Goldilocks and the Three Bears. This home has less than clean air but is energy efficient, this home has fresh air, but an inefficient HVAC, and this home is just right! Although it is not that straightforward and there are other factors to consider, do not worry! We are here to help you make the best decision for your home! ‍ Get to know a filter's quality Before making any choices, one must first understand the quality of a filter. Any air filter you purchase will have a grade on it as a tool to show its quality. The most common measurement scales that you will find are MERV, MPR, and FPR. For this blog, we will be referring to the MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating scale but it can easily translate to other measurement scales that you may see used. The higher the rating of the filter is, the smaller the particles that it will capture as well as the higher the percentage of particles captured. Low-efficiency filters typically lie within MERV 1-4 and high-efficiency filters are MERV 13 and beyond. The scaling of MERV is not linear; the difference between a MERV 6 and a MERV 8 is nearly double in the percentage of particles captured. Be aware that as the MERV rating increases, the filter gets more restrictive and it will take more pressure and energy to push air through. ‍ Low-efficiency filters These filters will maximize your airflow but will do very little when it comes to cleaning your air. Filters in this category can sometimes be referred to as "rock-catchers" because their job is to make sure that nothing too significant and devastating gets sucked up into the HVAC unit as the bare minimum. They will stop the large debris, but the majority of other particles will be free to enter your HVAC unit. The dust and dirt will either land somewhere in the system or circulate back into the house. Dust and dirt on critical parts of your HVAC system will increase demand on your system, which can lead to repair and maintenance bills that you’re not looking to pay. Also, particles being circulated back into your home is just plain unhealthy. These filters are certainly better than no filter at all, but that is not saying much. ‍ Ironically, the effectiveness of low-efficiency air filters increases as the filter loads up with dirt and dust. There are two problems, though. First, it takes time for the filter to be loaded enough to get a beneficial effect so that everything that gets by the filter ends up either in your system or back in your home. Second, eventually, the filter can become so dirty that the system experiences a pressure drop which can burn out the fan motor. To prevent this, you have to change the filter, which takes you right back to the first problem. For the brief time that you get a small benefit from your low-efficiency filter is far outweighed by the problems it creates. ‍ So why use them? The main reason is that some older units can only handle these filters. A couple of decades ago, filters of lower quality were nearly the only kind used for homes. Technology for HVAC units has progressed since and most modern units of the last few years should be capable of a MERV 8 filter at the least. But older units may not be capable of enough air pressure to force air through a higher efficiency filter. Trying so could cause significant issues as well as a need for repairs. ‍ Some HVAC technicians have a preference for these low-efficiency filters due to their low resistance to airflow. When these filters get dirty and need to be changed, air will still be able to flow through them and not clog as easily. Some technicians are anticipating that people will forget to change out their filters and using low-efficiency filters regularly could help minimize damage to a neglected HVAC. Filters of this category are recommended to be changed every two to four weeks, which can be challenging to maintain for some. It may be comforting to know that your overdue filter is not as bad as it could be, but it is not doing anything else for you until it is replaced. ‍ High-efficiency filters A more efficient filter will be more effective at removing particles from the air as they enter your HVAC system. They will improve the air quality in your home as well and keep your lungs happy. Since the filtration is more thorough, it will take more energy and effort from your HVAC unit to use them. How much more can vary by home and HVAC system, but with modern technology, the increase in airflow resistance that you get with a high-efficiency filter is typically marginal. This is important to note, because many homeowners believe the relationship is simply linear, meaning as filtration efficiency increases, so does resistance to airflow at the same rate. This is not accurate, though, and it's the reason why millions of homeowners use high-efficiency filters with no concern. For example, Second Nature's Essential filter is roughly 450% more effective at capturing particles than a cheapo low-efficiency fiberglass filter, but its resistance to airflow is only about 20% higher, a marginal difference. ‍ An important note with a higher MERV filter is that you need to remember to change it. A consequence of a very effective air filter is the speed with which it can load with pollutants and begin to increase pressure drop. This is just fancy talk for "the filter catches more stuff so it clogs faster." If you leave a clogged filter unchanged for a long time, that's when you can start to see issues with resistance to airflow. This is, of course, a very easy issue to prevent. Just remember to change the filter and you're good to go. In summary So which filter should you consider? If your unit is older and/or very sensitive with airflow, use a filter that ranks from MERV 1 up to possibly MERV 6. If you want your air to at least be cleaned and handle dust, mold, pollen, and bacteria, then a MERV 8 will do the job. Having pets would require a MERV 10 to manage their dander, which tends to have smaller particles than the pollutants previously discussed. Air filters that are MERV 13 and higher are recommended for those that prioritize air quality and may have to handle asthma, severe allergies, and other similar circumstances. Try to not go beyond what you need for your situation. Otherwise, it would be a waste of energy, money, and give unneeded stress to your HVAC system. The factors of every home can vary, so you can always contact a local HVAC technician if you are ever unsure and want a second opinion. ‍ The cost-benefit equation is simple: For a few extra dollars, you can ensure that your HVAC system is as clean as possible and the air in your home is effectively filtered just by using an efficient air filter that is changed regularly. It's an easy task that Second Nature makes even easier.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Air Filter Sizes & How They Work

What is an undercut? What does nominal mean? All the answers are right here. One of the more needlessly confusing elements of home wellness is air filter sizing. We didn't make it this way, but we are making it is as simple as possible for you right here. Let's get started. ‍ The two types To understand air filter sizing, you first have to understand that there are two primary types of air filters. ‍ 1-inch and 2-inch air filters Whole house air filters ‍ Home air filters are the ones that go into your wall in the air return; although, in some homes, they can go in the ceiling or into the ductwork itself. Your "air return" is aptly named—it's where "air returns" to your HVAC system from inside your home. Most filters for your return are 1" thick. While 2" filters are found in some homes, it's a lot less often. ‍ Whole house filters usually go into an air handler, which is typically situated next to your HVAC system itself. In some homes, these go directly into the ductwork too. It's worth noting that, while you usually only have one, it's possible to need more than one whole house filter for your home. Whole house filters always have a thickness of 4, 5, or 6 inches. ‍ You may have noticed that we did not mention 3-inch filters. While 3" filters technically do exist, they're particularly rare. If you need a 3" filter, you are special. ‍ There's also such a thing as accordion air filters, and, just like it sounds, they are shaped like an accordion. If you have one of these in your home, we sell those too, but...well, that's just weird. ‍ Air Filter Sizes: Length and width 1" and 2" refers to the thickness or depth of the filter, which we'll get to in a minute. First, let's talk about length and width. Length and width are technically interchangeable, but for discussion purposes, a 12x20 is 12 inches long and 20 inches wide. It's a very common size that is easy to find, and it's on a short list of sizes that are common enough for air filter companies like us to keep in stock. Some other common sizes are: ‍ 12x12x1 12x20x1 12x24x1 14x14x1 14x20x1 14x24x1 14x25x1 14x30x1 16x20x1 16x24x1 16x25x1 18x18x1 18x24x1 18x30x1 20x20x1 20x24x1 20x25x1 20x30x1 24x24x1 24x30x1 ‍ If you have a 1" or 2" air filter that is not on this list, you'll likely need a custom cut, and the hardware store definitely can't help you here. We've got you covered, though. With our custom air filters, there are 66,000 possible different sizes. We know! That's a lot. ‍ To put 66,000 in perspective, that's roughly the population density of Manhattan per sq mi. That's also approximately how many Orangutans are alive today. Take those facts to trivia. ‍ Undercuts and roundings A 20x20x1 air filter is actually 19-¾" x 19-¾" x ¾". This is what is known as the undercut. All 1" and 2" filters are undercut by a quarter of an inch to provide a little bit of leeway to ensure it fits into the air return without being too big. This includes custom sizes, so a 27-⅜" x 23-⅝" x 2" (which is the weirdest size we could think of) is actually 27-⅛" x 23-⅜" x 1-¾". ‍ At SecondNature.com, you'll see an actual size that shows the undercut when you enter a custom size. You'll want the custom size you pick to be the size of your return measurements, which allows the actual size to be a quarter-inch less. ‍ Undercuts exist on whole house filters as well, but not in the same way they do for 1" and 2" filters. In fact, undercut is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to whole house air filters. These are actually just rounded to whole numbers in a somewhat arbitrary fashion. Allow us to explain. ‍ Different manufacturers cut their whole house filters to different sizes and then round them to standardized measurements, which means that two 20x25x5 whole house filters made by two different manufacturers are probably not the same size. Below are some examples: ‍ Honeywell has a 20x25x5 is actually 19-3/4" x 19-7/8" x 4 3/8" Filtrete has a 20x25x5 is actually 19.75" x 24.4375" x 4.69" (seems like they have some pretty fancy rulers over there) Lennox has a 20x25x5 is actually 19-3/4" x 24-3/4" x 4-3/8" ‍ And that all makes total sense...? ‍ Because of this, it's necessary for those of you that need a whole house filter to know the exact filter size you need. If you can't find that on the filter, you can provide Second Nature with the nominal size and the brand that you had previously been using, and we'll be able to find the filter you're looking for. ‍ Nominal vs. Actual size All filters are sized two different ways. Yep, you read that correctly. All filters have an actual size and then a nominal size. The actual size is the exact dimensions with no rounding; whereas, the nominal size is the rounded dimensions of the filter. This means that on 1" and 2" air filters, the nominal size does not include the undercut, and the actual size does include the undercut. On whole house filters, the nominal size is the rounded size, and the actual size is just the unrounded. Pretty easy stuff here. ‍ Sizes can be reversible If you measure your vent and find that you need a filter with a nominal size of 30x20, you'll find shortly thereafter that there is no such thing as a 30x20. There is only a 20x30, and that is what you actually need. Whether the pleats on the filter run horizontally or vertically won't impact the effectiveness of your filter, so the number of unique air filter sizes on the market can simply be cut in half by always listing the smaller measurement first instead of having a 20x30 and a 30x20 as two completely different products. If you find that you need a 15x34, grab yourself a 34x15 and just rotate it 90 degrees. It's the same thing. ‍ And that's how air filter sizes work. It's probably a little more complicated than it needed to be, but we try to make it easy. Now you'll never be confused by things like undercuts again. ‍ tl;dr: air filters have weird sizes. Leave the rest to us—we'll make sure the right ones get to you right when you need them. ‍refrigerator water filter reduces.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Everything You Need to Know about Ragweed Allergies This Fall

Thanks to ragweed pollen, fall allergies can be a pain when you're trying to enjoy the changing weather. Prepare for ragweed below. Pollen sucks. Its existence is essential to life itself, but it’s an absolute menace to allergy-afflicted individuals throughout the spring . . . and the fall. “Wait, and the fall?” Yes, and the fall. “That’s like half the seasons. I didn’t sign up for that.” Well, the summer as well. That’s when grass pollen comes out. “. . .“ “So if spring is tree pollen and summer is grass pollen, what is fall pollen? Bush pollen?” Ragweed, mostly. Ragweed pollen is public enemy number one in the fall for allergy sufferers. ‍ The good news is that you aren’t allergic to all pollen because you are allergic to one type of pollen. Just because tree pollen, the yellow dust that coats entire cities in the spring, causes you to sneeze and itch, doesn’t necessarily mean ragweed pollen is going to do the same. ‍ Tree pollen in the early months of the year is generally a more prominent allergen. That’s why springtime gets the most hubbub when talking about allergies. Despite this, a larger number of Americans actually suffer from a fall pollen allergy than a spring one. ‍ So, what is ragweed and what does it look like? Keep reading to learn all about this sneaky irritant that may result in an unsuspecting ragweed pollen allergy. What is ragweed & what does it look like? What does ragweed look like? It’s a flowering plant that looks about like this: Ragweed can be found growing in fields, on roadsides, or anywhere there is open space in every state excluding Alaska (do you think Alaska feels sad for always being excluded?). There are lots of different species of ragweed, such as sage, eupatorium, and just in case ragweed wasn’t a gross enough name for you, there is also mugwort. ‍ The two primary offenders in the case of allergen production are the cleverly named common ragweed and giant ragweed. These species of ragweed can be identified by their lobed leaves, which other species don’t have. Lobed leaves look like this: The difference between giant ragweed and common ragweed is that giant ragweed is bigger. You’re welcome. ‍ Ragweed vs. Goldenrod Goldenrod is a very similar looking plant that, like ragweed, can be found just about anywhere in the United States. Genetically, it’s extremely different from ragweed, and its pollen is not an allergen. Nobody in the country is allergic to Goldenrod pollen. People often confuse it with the allergy factory of ragweed because of their similar appearances, and also probably because it's bright yellow and that is the color people associate with pollen. It is harmless though. Below is a side-by-side comparison so you can tell the difference. ‍ When is ragweed season? Like tree pollen season, ragweed pollen season can vary slightly by geographic location. It usually starts a little earlier and ends a little earlier the farther north you travel. While the plant can begin flowering as early as July, August is typically the month when ragweed pollen begins to infect the air around us. So, if you have a ragweed pollen allergy, you’ll likely notice symptoms at the end of summer through the start of winter. Late October is when it starts to diminish in the northern states, and it survives until late fall, usually mid-November, in the southern states. The first significant frost often coincides with the end of ragweed’s pollination time. So root for an early frost if you’re a ragweed pollen allergy sufferer. ‍ How is ragweed pollen different from tree pollen? It’s not, really. There are a few minor characteristics that are different, such as oak tree pollen being able to remain suspended in the air longer than ragweed. Ragweed produces a lot fewer individual pollen grains per plant. Overall, it’s a slightly less potent allergen than oak pollen and other tree pollens in the spring, but still pretty obnoxious if you’re afflicted with an intolerance. It also doesn’t cover the ground in a thick yellow dust, making it a less common talking point in the world of pollen allergies because of the lack of visual presence. Just like tree pollen though, it still sucks. How do you manage a ragweed pollen allergy? So, you know what ragweed looks like. But what do you do if you find you have a ragweed pollen allergy? Here are three tips to keep your symptoms at bay. ‍ Pay attention to weather forecasts There are a couple of reasons to keep an eye on the weather for today and the coming days. The first is pollen counts. You can also check these online at a place like pollen.com. We talked at length about these in our spring pollen blog, so we won’t dive too deep here. ‍ Pollen counts, or pollen index, can vary based on many weather factors though, so some days outside will be way worse than others. The forecasts take these into account to give you an accurate idea of how prevalent the allergy threat will be each day. ‍ Generally speaking, the mid-day hours are the worst for ragweed pollen. Going for that run or bike ride at dawn or dusk is a good idea if you have a fall pollen allergy (this is a good idea anyways in August, as it’s the hottest month of the year in many places). The wind is also responsible for driving up pollen counts. A consistent breeze will push pollen grains into the air and stop them from settling. So avoid windy days for your outdoor activities. ‍ Also, keep an eye on rain in the forecast. Rain is the best thing for a ragweed pollen allergy. It washes pollen out of the sky and washes away pollen on the ground that can be resuspended in the air. If you’ve got an outdoor activity planned this fall, see if you can schedule it for the day after a rain. You’ll be a lot happier and healthier spending time outside because of the sudden decrease in pollen counts. Take medicine When you’re buying medication for your allergies, there is not a lot that is different in the fall versus the spring. Antihistamines such as Zyrtec or Chlor-Trimeton block allergens by binding to receptors within the body, depriving the allergen of its chance to make you sneeze right before it succeeds. ‍ Antihistamines are effective because they target the actual cause of the allergic reaction instead of treating the symptoms. Other medications specifically for symptoms, such as decongestants, are available if you happen to have an antihistamine intolerance. Keep ragweed pollen outside If you’re a serious pollen allergy sufferer, it’s important to cover your bases when it comes to the air inside your home. You can’t rid the outside air of ragweed pollen, but you can keep it from getting inside. ‍ Keep your windows and doors closed, especially on windy days. It may be tempting to leave your front door open or crack a window when that cool fall weather begins to roll in, but that’s the only barrier between your house and ragweed pollen. ‍ Remember that pollen can also be carried into your home on your clothes, body, or pets. Change clothes after spending a significant amount of time outside and drop those clothes in the washing machine. Shower after significant outdoor activities. Wash your hands after petting any dogs or cats that have been outside. If it gets inside, don’t fret. Simply follow our best practices for how to remove allergies from your home. Close the top on your convertible this time of year too. ‍ ‍Filter ragweed pollen out by keeping clean air filters in You can make a material difference in the amount of ragweed pollen that enters your home by taking those simple precautions. You can’t eliminate it entirely, though. One of the best ways to keep your home as pollen-free as possible is to use air filters with high MERV ratings (8 or above). Using a high-quality air filter, like Second Nature’s Health Shield or Essential+ filter, will pull those sneaky particles out of your home and into the garbage. Get one today. Not sure what size to get? Learn about air filter sizes and how they work to remove allergens from your home.

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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What Is An Electrostatic Air Filter?

Is an electrostatic air filter the same thing as a washable air filter or reusable air filter? Not necessarily. Raise your hand if you learned about static electricity as a kid by rubbing a balloon on your head and watching your hair cling to it. Now, if you actually raised your hand while reading this, put it down. People are staring. ‍ You probably thought that static electricity was pretty cool but didn't really serve any practical purpose for you in your life. Beyond not lighting yourself on fire at the gas station, you were right, until now. It turns out that the very air you breathe is affected by static electricity. How? With air filters, of course! What the heck else would we be talking about? ‍ Certain air filters actually use static electricity to catch particles as they pass through the filter media. These are known as electrostatic air filters. Now when you google electrostatic air filter, you'll usually find a wealth of information about washable/reusable air filters. Within the general public's knowledge of air filters, electrostatic air filter has become synonymous with washable air filter, but that's actually not fully correct. Electrostatic is merely a feature of washable filters, and it's not exclusive to them. Let’s dive in. ‍ What is electrostatic? We've reached the science part of the blog. Here we're going to talk about static electricity and how filters use it. Feel free to skip this part if you took Static Electricity 201 in college. If you only took 101, you might want to read this. It will be on the test. ‍ Anybody who has ever played with a magnet knows that the opposite poles on the magnet attract. If you try to stick like poles together, they repel. The same principle is what creates the static electricity that electrostatic air filters use. ‍ Static electricity is caused by a difference in the charges of particles. Particles are made of atoms, and atoms are made of protons, neutrons, and electrons. Atoms that have the same number of protons and electrons are neutral and have no charge. When a neutral atom gains or loses an electron, it becomes charged. ‍ Electrostatic air filters are made of filter media that undergoes a process to "charge" it, thereby creating that attractive quality. Sometimes, multi-layer washable filters contain layers of materials meant to charge particles as they pass through, making the job of the attractive layer of the filter easier. ‍ Instead of getting pulled through the filter and physically caught and blocked by filter material, the particles are actually attracted to the filter media because of physics. It's pretty neat in theory. In practice, well, we'll get into that in a second. ‍ What filters are electrostatic? As stated, electrostatic simply means "uses static electricity." Nothing about the term automatically identifies a filter as washable or reusable. Washable filters are electrostatically charged. Since that's how they are typically marketed, it's become a general understanding that that is what an electrostatic filter is. However, most pleated filters are electrostatic as well. ‍ Unlike filters of the washable variety, pleated filters don't have to be charged to have an electrostatic element. Some are, and as a result, produce a powerful electrostatic field that helps catch the smallest of particles. Uncharged filters still create a field based on what they're made of. Because of that, they produce a weaker field and rely more on mechanical filtering. ‍ Mechanical filtering just means that the filter physically blocks pollutants. It's the most common filtering technique and the one that pleated and fiberglass primarily rely on. ‍ Fiberglass filters can hold something of a static charge, but it's not enough to actually make it an effective filtering device. They're still garbage. ‍ So what are washable air filters? Washable air filters are almost all electrostatic air filters. The selling point is they can be cleaned and used for several years before it is time to buy a new one. On paper, that seems like a groundbreaking innovation in the filter industry. But that's just paper. In reality, it's pretty easy to see the holes. Did you see what we did there? We made a joke about crappy air filters because they have big holes in them. Get it? Do you get it? Ok. Sorry. It won't happen again. ‍ There are some advantages to the washable air filter, and most are pretty straightforward. Washable filters can save you money on filters in the long run. Instead of replacing it every three months, you just wash it out, let it dry, and replace it. These guys run anywhere between $30 and $80 and typically last around three years, although some can last as long as five. So obviously, there is some money to be saved by spending less than $100 on air filters over several years. ‍ That's about where the advantages end. Remembering to change your pleated filter can be hard (unless you use a particular home wellness company *wink* *wink*). Remembering and actually finding the time to wash, vacuum, and dry your washable filter? Not so easy. ‍ When you do remember to wash them, you better make sure you do a thorough job. If you don't, you're inserting a dirty filter back into your home. That completely defeats the purpose of a washable air filter. Even cleaned, if you don't dry it completely, it can grow mold. You don't want either of those things. ‍ From an actual filtering perspective, washables are better than cheap fiberglass, because what isn't? Still, they don't really measure up to pleated filters, especially when it comes to larger and more common pollutants like pollen. ‍ Now you may have noticed that we said washable filters are "almost exclusively electrostatic." Many washable filters also do have a mechanical element that is made of similar material to a pleated filter. The problem is that this filter media cannot be woven tightly, as it would affect the filter's ability to build a charge and make it exceptionally hard to clean. The result is that the mechanical element does virtually nothing and is less efficient than even fiberglass (Gasp!). ‍ Why don’t washable air filters measure up to pleated? Pleated filters are naturally electrostatic. Washable filters kind of live off in their own world when it comes to air filters. They work so differently than a pleated or even fiberglass filter that the MERV rating isn't particularly applicable to them, thereby making their efficiency harder to understand. ‍ Basically, this is how it works. Filters that have a mechanical element always become less effective. The smaller particles are, the better they are at finding holes in the filter—they're small. With washables, the exact opposite is true. ‍ Because there is no reliable mechanical element with a washable filter, static electricity is the only thing that stops pollutants from passing right through. Washable electrostatic filters are more effective against smaller particles, as they have an easier time pulling them in with their electrostatic forces. Bigger particles require a stronger electrostatic force to attract and as a result have a much easier time slipping past the static electricity. ‍ The lack of mechanical filtering can lead to other issues as well, such as particles just kind of falling off the filter and back into the air every time you take it out. Seriously, that may sound really stupid, but it's actually a real problem. ‍ Statically charged pleated filters combine the electrostatic element to target small particles with the mechanical element to target large particles, making them the most effective across the entire spectrum of particle size. ‍ Pleated filters also become more effective as they age because of the buildup of particles, which actually helps block more particles. The opposite is again true with purely electrostatic washable filters. Once dust and pollutants have coated the entire filter, the static electricity is weakened significantly. Since this force is the only thing that stops particles, all that nastiness can flow right through the filter. ‍ Washable filters, because of their multiple layer construction, also have an extremely high initial pressure drop. If you're unfamiliar with that term, it basically means that airflow through the filter is initially lower than other types of filters. If airflow dips too low, your HVAC unit can struggle to pull in enough air and have to work harder. This costs you more on your heating and cooling bill and may potentially blow out the motor. Pleated filters don't really have this problem unless you leave them in the vent for way too long. ‍ Electrostatics is some pretty cool science, but ultimately it's not particularly useful on its own. It can give a nice boost to a well-constructed pleated air filter, but it's not really enough to get the job done on its own. ‍ How are pleated filters charged? As mentioned above, pleated filters fall into two categories when discussing electrostatic air filters. Some are charged with a charging procedure while they're being built. This is done with a process involving a bunch of tiny needles, but we won't get into that because it will probably bore you out of your skull. ‍ Some, typically the lower MERV-rated varieties, are not charged. These still carry a natural charge because of their construction material, and their charge actually increases over time as the air passing through the filter helps to build up a little bit of a charge. ‍ Pleated filters give you the best of both worlds. Even varieties that aren't intentionally charged still outpace reusable filters. The good news is that if you want to buy a pleated filter, you're already on a website that sells them!

Calendar icon February 6, 2023

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Foldable Filter FAQ

Congrats! You’ve been selected to receive our brand new, foldable air filter. This innovative new filter is super easy to use. Its unique design allows for a more compact shipping size. This means we’re able to greatly reduce the amount of cardboard and materials used, helping us be more ecologically efficient and less wasteful. 1. Why did you change to this new filter? Air filters were past overdue for an upgrade. This is the first time the residential air filter has been redesigned in 30 years! Why settle? Here at Second Nature we’re always looking to improve and innovate to provide the best product for our customers. 2. This filter looks really different. How will it perform? There should be no noticeable change in performance between this filter and the classic framed filter you have been receiving from us. It will continue to filter pollen, dust, mold, bacteria, mites, & pet dander. Rest assured, our re-designed filters have undergone rigorous testing. 3. This looks thinner than my standard 1” filter. Will this make noise when my HVAC system turns on and off? Will it rattle? Our new filter, with its cloth-covered frame, will generally be quieter than a regular filter with a hard cardboard frame. 4. How often do I need to change this new filter? Just like our regular filters, this one should last for 90 days, though environmental factors and personal preferences play a part. If you live in a climate that has you running your HVAC most or all of the time, it’s a good idea to change more often. 5. Are the new filters recyclable? The filter itself is not recyclable, but please recycle the cardboard box. 6. Which way do I put it in the vent? Where’s the arrow? Our redesigned filter can be installed facing either way! New technology allows airflow in either direction. 7. What is this filter made out of? Our new filter is a polyester fabric blend, much like conventional filters. The fabric is supported by strips of spring-tempered steel in thin sleeves of polyvinyl. 8. If I’m not ready to replace my filter yet, but already opened it, can I fold it back up? Sure. It’s a bit like pushing the joke snake back into the tennis ball can, but if you’re careful and use the original box, it should be fine. 9. What are the benefits of this filter over standard ones? The frame is more durable thanks to our unique Flex-Lock frame. A cloth-like frame can produce a tighter seal in your intake vent, helping to prevent air from sneaking around the sides of the filter. Less packaging = less excessive waste 10. How should I dispose of this filter? Simply discard it, the same way you’ve disposed of your previous filters. You can even fold it back up, and place it in an indoor trash can! Please ensure it's folded up securely to prevent the filter from unfolding. The cardboard box can be recycled. 11. My friend/sibling/neighbor wants one of these! How do I get them signed up for this filter? For now, you have exclusive access to this new product. We’ll be rolling it out to other customers gradually. 12. Is this product more environmentally friendly? By folding the filter into a more compact size, we are able to greatly reduce our packaging materials, primarily cardboard. This also means we fit a lot more filters into each truck that leaves our fulfillment center!

Calendar icon December 2, 2021

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